Renovate corridors, stairs and upper stairs in 1930 of the House, peel off the paint, change the board, renovate 1930 of the stairs and upper stairs to return them to a more modern and comfortable wooden finish.
This DIY project provides a guide and tips to gradually remove the right carpet and return to bare wood at your feet;
Replace pine flooring with oak flooring.
During the construction process, we were able to determine the date of construction of the House more accurately from the archaeological findings under the floor to c1928 (
Details at the bottom of this article)
There is no doubt that we can confirm this date once the mortgage is paid off.
Background and purpose the background of this DIY project can be summarized with the word "cat.
Yes, cats often have mou mouth and long hair cat mou mouth, which is not good for carpets, especially on stairs and stairs where cats may spend a lot of time;
Resulting in the need for vacuum forever.
So decided to pull-
Climb the carpet and renovate the upper stairs and floors to create a more modern, visually pleasing and practical finish with less maintenance and easier cleaning;
Sweep quickly with a brush instead of taking out the vacuum.
Getting a good finish in the old building is not a simple task, that is, picking up the carpet to reveal the wooden stairs and floors.
In the old house, once you start looking back for decades, you will find that many of the things below the remediation works pop up from the woodwork, just like the DIY project for this 1930 house.
Also, once the stairs are brought back to the bare wood, the wood floor on the upper stairs is fine, and the rest of the corridors and stairs need to be re-laid
Decorate with fresh paint;
Once any minor repairs and preparations are made necessary.
Here are the main problems in renovating and transforming stairs and stairs in this DIY project, and how these problems are solved;
Leave tips and ideas that may be appropriate to help others.
Step by step, the stair treads are pine trees with 18mm (3/4 inch)
On the riser, the riser may be a box of wood, a string (
Fix the pedal and riser to the side board in the appropriate position)
Embedded in the walls on both sides, the walls on one side are securely secured with handrails.
The house was built in fashion, with a stair rug laid in the middle of the stairs in the third part, with paint steps on both sides, light or more typical white such as brown or yellow;
It was not until the 1960 s that the use of lead oil-based coatings was common.
Strings and handrails have also been painted, usually white or brown.
Many years ago, when we first decorated the hall and stairs, we peeled the handrails back to the wood, and the wood stained the handrails, so this time there was almost no need to do anything but quick cleaning and varnish;
Add varnish as an additional protective layer to provide additional durability and make cleaning easier.
Wood stained doors, windowsills and racks with glossy or silk finish wood stains provide a good and durable finish that is easy to wipe clean, but for areas with heavy traffic and frequent use such as floors and handrails, dyed wood should be done with proper varnish to reduce the building
Clean up easier muck.
The extent of the problem quickly became apparent by removing the installed carpet and trying to remove the paint from the stairs for decades.
Paint at the top, more modern water-based gloss paint is easy to remove with sandpaper, paint and varnish stripping and or hot gun, but the original three-layer paint (
Over 90 years old)
It will prove very difficult to eliminate.
The initial layer is a green water-based paint, which may be wood and knot glue, which has been deeply soaked in wood grain and is not affected by chemical removal and hot guns as well as ordinary sanding;
The first layer can only be removed by a belt grinder or similar equipment that can go deep into the wood grain.
The green top is two layers of yellow and white oil-based paint, a bottom coating and a top coating, in addition to a brown oil-based paint with a large amount of lead, even the sanding belt was soon blocked;
When heated instead of scraping off with a hot gun, it becomes a thick oil-like sticky substance that immediately sticks to the wood and becomes harder to remove.
In the face of these challenges, the further content of this article is
Describe in depth how I handle these issues to remove the various paint layers on the pedal (steps)
In the closed area of the stairs, the riser was modified to provide a wood finish and the stringers were decorated to reduce future maintenance.
The floor on the upper floor removes the carpet and the ground floor on the upper floor, revealing the combination of the old twisted and cracked floors and the new ones, which are usually dry and shrink (
A common problem with modern central heating)
Left a huge ugly gap between the boards.
It is clear that it is a waste of time to polish these boards to bare wood with belts;
They need to be pulled up and replaced.
The question of doing this is :-
A part of the floor parallel to the wall of the bathroom is embedded under the wall, and the length is complete;
Therefore, the skirting board needs to be removed and the floor cut.
This is not a big problem because the skirting board is rough and needs to be replaced, the SoniCrafter saw is ideal for cutting the floor along the full length of the floor;
Once a new skirting has been replaced, any gaps will be hidden.
Although the support beam shifts from the master bedroom to the corridor landing at the other end, the floor enters from under the door into the office door where there is already a laminated floor, and there is no support beam below the door.
It is not intended to pull up the office's laminate floor in order to obtain the support beam, and, if necessary, design an alternative custom system to support the new floor, in which case, by fixing the strips on the support beam to support a properly sturdy plywood, the top of the plywood will be flush with the top of the support beam.
Bare wood, when laid, will be done at the door leading to the upper platform, leaving gaps in these places that may need to be hidden with a beam of doors.
The doors and windows desk I purchased in the past to accommodate changes in floor level between carpet and laminate or oak flooring (
Even hardwood floors)
Never proved durable;
So as part of this DIY remodeling exercise, I will make my own custom door beams when necessary to get the job done correctly.
After studying these issues, the next decision is whether to replace the old floor with a new pine or oak floor.
After careful consideration and family discussion, we decided to choose oak tree.
Although a little more expensive than pine, the advantage of choosing Oak is that the oak floor looks better and more durable, unlike pine flooring, which is interlocking;
Reduce the risk of ugly gaps due to shrinkage, although gaps are required around the edges to allow expansion, these gaps are hidden when new skirting boards are installed.
The only small problem is that the oak floor is 18mm thick, while the pine floor is 21mm thick, so for the two bedroom door where the new oak board meets the old pine board, the outer edge of the pine board needs to be rounded up, to explain the decline of 3mm.
Another benefit of using oak on the upper stairs is that the lobby downstairs has been mounted with oak, so there will be some symmetry;
While the stairs between the upper stairs and the downstairs lobby are pine trees, they will be finished with light oak varnish, mixed with the downstairs lobby and the upper stairs to create a common decorative theme.
The order from dirtiest to most messy DIY work will be processed first, stairs, upper floors, small fixes, and finally painting and decoration.
First solve the problem of bringing the stairs back to the bare wood to prepare the paint, as this requires a lot of sanding and produces most of the dust.
Once the stairs are ready to be painted, remove and replace the floor on the platform of the upper stairs, some dust will be generated next.
Of course, the painting and decoration will be left to the end.
The downside to this is that, due to gravity, you usually work from top to bottom because any paint and a lot of dust will fall on the floor, so if the floor is doneg.
Preparing the painted stairs and the upper stairs mounted with oak requires some protection against paint drops and finally additional cleaning.
However, since the most confusing work is on the floor, this DIY remodeling project has to change the golden rule of working from top to bottom;
Until all the remodeling work is done, everything is ready, when the final stage of paint and paint can be done from top to bottom, everything is ready, the stairs are painted
The first task is to transform the stairs and walk the sidewalk (steps)
Go back to the bare wood and prepare the paint.
The four areas that need to be treated separately are steps, riser, longitudinal beam, and handrails.
Each stage is described below.
Makita Belt sander since we bought a Belt I have found a great thing on these belts Sanders, that is the durability and power of the sanding Belt.
When I polish
Up and down the stairs, like how is this
To review the article, even though the old lead paint did their job to get me back to the bare wood, it did not strangely clog the sanding belt.
However, since the completion of this project, in the case that I often use sanding belts in many other DIY projects, including the old front door polishing recently purchased cheaply in a reclaimed yard, I have used the same sanding belt with almost no wear and tear.
Therefore, for normal woodworking projects, unlike other sanding paper that is quickly worn out, the sanding belt on these sanding electric tools will last for a long time before it needs to be replaced
The replacement is not expensive, which makes it a very good value for money product that saves working hours in workshops or sheds and is worth every penny.
The Dremel tool KitAs shown above these Dremels are very common gadgets;
This is a great tool to get into places where other tools can't reach.
In this article, I mainly use Demel for sanding, although I often use it to cut wood, metal and plastic when there are no other tools.
When the thread disappears and corrupts the bolt, it is very helpful to cut off the head of the nail and the screw.
It is also an ideal choice for making exquisite works, and it is also an ideal choice for engraving on various materials such as wood, metal, plastic and glass.
I have had dreams for many years and I always find new uses for it;
Recently I was carving and holding it like a pen and it was great.
With the accessories so cheap, it's always worth adding from time to time, so you're ready to use this great gadget well the next time you need it.
The steps to put the pedal back into the bare wood to prepare the painted steps the stair carpet, floor mat, carpet clip and all nails installed were removed and the stairs were swept over as well.
According to the manufacturer's instructions, the first step to bring the stairs back to the bare wood is to apply a free paint and varnish stripping coating to remove the paint as much as possible.
Four treatments were carried out for the steps and riser, and the remaining three layers were removed except for the initial three layers, which were 1930 oiled and rich in lead and would not be transferred using chemical methods.
The hot gun is proven to be as ineffective as a chemical method on these original layers (paint stripper)
And because of the lead content of the paint, the ordinary sand machine (orbital sander)had no effect.
So I spent some time working on the web to find out how others handled the stairs back to the bare wood and what advice they provided.
What I have learned is that there is no single or simple answer.
The exact method depends to a large extent on the age and type of stairs and in all cases requires hard and laborious work.
So my best advice is to evaluate the status of the stairs to determine what needs to be done, what you want to achieve, how much effort you are prepared to put into achieving the end result you want.
If the stairs are moderng.
Post 1960 then the paint should be easy to remove, although on more modern stairs it is very necessary to follow the recommended sanding and paint removal guidelinesg.
The direction of sand and scrap is the same as the wood grain, not on the wood grain, otherwise ugly scratches will be seen even when the wood grain is painted or stained.
However, with age (pre 1960s)
Stairs most likely to be marked and scratched from decades of use (aging effect)
There are also some scratches and marks that won't be inappropriate, as long as there aren't a lot of regular lines with cross-sanding symptoms, then some extra marks will increase the appearance of the countryside to feel typical old stairs in the old house.
After studying the network, the best option for this DIY renovation project seems to be a Sander;
I can easily hire from a local tool rental company.
However, when checking the cost of rent, I found that the price of rent increased significantly, which was a fairly cheap option for temporary use of tools a few years ago, so much so that I bought a Sander (
Only five times the cost of hiring an employee in two days)
It seems to be a good long-term investment.
The reason to go to the grinder is that the ordinary electric grinder I just swing back and forth (
Like a track Sander.
And is blocked by lead paint without removing paint;
However, the Sander keeps spinning and should bite anything on the path, including nails.
Yes, the newly acquired belt Sander did work well, it went through any nails I missed like butter, but even so it was quickly blocked with lead paint, that I had to change the belt after each tread (step).
Nevertheless, it went through the paint and into the grain that made the mission short;
The only problem is that it can't reach the corners and edges.
When stripping any 1960 front paint, wearing a mask is essential due to the lead in the paint.
After cleaning up the main area of the tread with a Sander, the ordinary electric sander starts to work, passing through the paint layer around the edge, although for the same reason it has to change the sandpaper every other step, because it will soon be blocked with lead paint.
In order to go straight to the corner and almost reach the edge of the steps, SoniCrafter is ideal, like a normal Sander, it oscillates on lead paint, so it is difficult to proceed, and the sanding pad is quickly blocked, must be replaced every other step;
But it does the work of getting into places where there are almost no power tools to reach.
Then, on the last thin paint strip on the edge, Dremel started his own work.
This proved to be very effective, because unlike Sanders of the vibrating sand drum, the sanding drum rotates like a Sander and passes through paint and wood like butter.
Surprisingly, the Sand Mill drum was not blocked with paint as other Sanders did;
Therefore, it takes only four small grinding drums to complete all the corners and edges of the entire staircase;
Due to final wear, only the sanding drum needs to be replaced occasionally.
The only minor drawback of Dremel in this task is that the small sanding drum at the tip of the tool is smaller than the handle, so you have to hold Dremel at a slight angle, this means that only about 8 inch of the distance is in contact with the wood as Dremel (small as it is)
It's a powerful device, you can't keep the sanding drum in one place for more than a second, and you can't put any pressure on it, otherwise it goes deep into the wood.
The trick is to let the grinding drum gently hover over the paint and move the top of Dremel with fairly fast small circular motion;
When you do this, you will see the paint magically disappear and quickly move into the next paint section to be removed.
Thanks to its strength and speed, it takes only a few minutes to clear the corners and edges of the paint at each step.
The last cleaning
Quickly start the hot gun and corner plate, along the edges and corners, remove the final paint residue from the DIY remodel exercise before giving a good sweep of the entire stairs and entering the next stage. The Nosing (
Edge of tread)
It is easy to recover the bare wood with an ordinary Sander;
Very little effort is needed, and it does not take a long time.
String strips and handrails cleaning, dyeing and painting string strips are two pieces of wood that hold the pedal and riser in place;
I don't know why it's called stringer.
However, considering the oil-based lead paint, it is a realistic option to bring it back to the bare wood (
This proved difficult to remove from the pedal)
, The space is too limited to use the grinder, and since the shinger runs at a 45 degree angle, any grinder will pass through the wood grain.
Therefore, after the application of the paint and varnish stripping device, I would be happy to use the hot gun and wiper to take the paint back and apply two or three layers of dark wood stains after good cleaning and rubbing;
As a good contrast to the light oak varnish that will be applied to the pedal.
The wood stain is slightly translucent and shows that the color below is defective and variant, so it is not possible to bring the string back to the bare wood, which may mean that two or three coats are required to provide a good uniform finish;
It looks a bit rustic and a bit like an old house.
The handrails were previously stained with wood and only need to be cleaned quickly with fine sandpaper to prepare the surface for paint.
In the face of the RisersFacing of the riser, taking the advice of the network, considering the oil-based lead paint, I decided not to put the riser back on the bare wood, which would prove to be vertical rather than horizontal than the pedal;
This makes it more difficult to hold and control the grinder and other tools, but not impossible.
My decision was mostly affected because, unlike the pine tree, the riser was just cheap box wood and I felt that a better finish could be obtained by facing them with better quality plywood; in this case 3. 6mm.
Enough has been measured and purchased 3. 6mm (1/8th inch)
Plywood faces the riser with wood grain in horizontally operated plywood, and I started to carefully measure and cut the surface of the plywood for the first riser to be used as a template or guide for other riser.
As it turns out, the first step has dropped by 6mm with more than 90 years of continuous use (1/4 inch)
So it wasn't until I cut the second riser that I was able to use it as a template for the remaining riser, where (surprisingly)
The rest of the stairs remained good and straight all the time.
Once I stuck 3 together.
Riser 6mm plywood panel with "no nail" and four wire pins (
One each corner)
With a nail gun;
Except for the steps at the top and bottom.
Top riser as once the wood floor on the upper platform is replaced and the bottom steps are installed as I want to use thicker plywood to have oak floor downstairs
The lobby downstairs used to be oak floor with a suitable gap next to the bottom steps (
Allows any natural expansion and movement of oak floors;
Hidden gaps in the stair carpet.
Now, with the removal of the stair carpet, the expansion gap is visible, but it can be hidden again using 12mm (half inch)
Plywood on the bottom riser.
The wood I need is 12mm plywood below 2 feet (600mm)
Through just over 1 feet (300mm);
But I don't have any inventory when checking my warehouse inventory.
However, it happened that a friend of mine asked me if I had 3 pieces.
6mm plywood 2 feet (600mm)by 2 foot (600mm)
He can use it as the background of the frame;
I did it while searching my cabin.
In return, he found an old cabinet top made of plywood of the 15mm size I was looking for, so we made a swapsy.
The top of the cabinet he gave me was slightly larger than I needed, although there were several layers of thick white gloss paint;
The Sander quickly did some short work, revealing a good piece of plywood below.
Unlike other steps, the shape of the bottom step is two 45 degree corners, each with beads in the bottom corner, leaving the oak floor edge of the hall downstairs;
Therefore, a lot of tedious and careful measurement and cutting is required for proper installation.
This is an example where measuring twice and cutting once does not workg.
If you don't cut enough, you can trim until it's right, but if you cut too much, you can't put the lost Wood back in place.
So I took the method of cutting the required parts that were slightly larger than required, and did the trim as needed until I got the perfect fit;
In order to get the correct shape and size around the mold that meets the steps, I find that the profile meter is priceless.
When the three pieces on the bottom riser are completely dry, I stick them together and fix them in the proper position, once the glue is completely dry, I use a sander to take the two ahead
Lay oak floors on the upper floor and replace pine flooring with oak. This is usually easier and faster than walking the stairs, and the hardest part is to get all the pine boards sorted and ready for the oak tree.
SoniCrafter saw proved to be very valuable, it can directly reach the edge of the board running along the wall of the bathroom and cut it off, complete the precision in less than ten minutes
The door of the Home Office is angled to the upper landing corridor, hiding the rafter (support beam)
I get a thick plywood by fixing the support between the two support beams to create support for the new oak floor, as shown in the following figure.
While the oak floor I bought is click and snap, not tongue and groove, make a stronger connection that doesn't require bonding or DingTalk, where possible, I still try to make sure the oak board is attached to the support beam;
Still, because it's a floating floor (
Not nailed in place)
There will be some (a little)
It is natural movement until the new planks settle down, especially in an old house where no original building is straight, horizontal or square.
The hardest part is cutting and installing the last row of oak beams, some of which operate under the existing bathroom door frame;
The decoration here is that the first part completed with two sections is broken on the front oak board in the middle of the door, and then gently tap on one side before the second piece is broken in place.
After completing all the boards, the next task is to add the skirting and door frame (sills).
The router and router bitsplunk and fixed base combination setsAs demonstrated in this article are very useful in woodworking projects, especially when handing the finishing touches to d. ©Cole.
Here are the options for premium routers and router bits.
After finishing the laying of the new oak wood floor, the new skirting, door steps and windowsill will need to be installed to complete the work.
Instead of buying new ones (
I decided to make my own skirting with 3 inch (75mm)
When I used the floor to make a solid shelf to store dvd and cd, the pine flooring left over from previous DIY projects.
Cut wood (
Simply make the skirting by running the router along an edge to create the curved finished edge of the skirting board.
It is a bit cumbersome to install the skirting, because the original skirting is only 2 inch (
50mm high, fixed directly to the wall before it is fully affixed, just before the Home Office, the Wall is slightly bent.
I solved the first problem by gluing a 3.
6mm "adhesive Batten" in the lower half of the back of the new skirting line, which is the approximate thickness of the plaster.
To make the new skirting bend around the curve on the wall, I cut a V at the back of the skirting, where I want it to bend, V is just an inch eighth (3mm)
Shorter than straight through the wood, so that once the main part is screwed to the wall, the rest can be gently pushed at the bend before screwing to the Wall (see photos).
The skirting on the other side of the home office door is almost as tedious as it needs to cut the 45 degree angle with two skirting lines to produce the 90 degree angle, not my fortes
But by careful measurement, it took me a little longer than the required time to cut the wood, I managed to get good cleaning without using screws or nails and just a drop of glue water.
The new door steps and windowsill make your own floor solid, the floor that enters the two bedrooms is the original floor and carpet, similar to the floating wood floor on the in-situ floor with the new oak floor;
The floors are laminated wood and wood tiles, respectively.
For these steps, I made my own steps with scrap wood and rounded the leading edge with an electric sander.
For the two bedrooms, although I lay the carpet on the floor, I purchased two aluminum doors and windows tables for vinyl to the floor instead of the carpet to the floor;
The reason for the drop is 3mm instead of 6mm, which is given when tightened (in my opinion)
We did consider buying wooden beams, but now they are only made up of a few millimeters (1/4 inch thick)
There is no power, once people start walking on it, it will break quickly, while aluminum is a solid material that can withstand the test of traffic, and surprisingly, it is much cheaper than the medium fiber board.
Minor and last touch
The last touch on the list is looking for any minor damage to existing wood products and any final touch-
Need ups before renovation.
In particular, there was a large piece of missing wood on the door frame of the master bedroom, which was previously filled by a occupant with Polyfilla, which had fallen off when I pulled the old pine floor.
Instead of refilling the damage, I put a piece of plywood on the side of the door frame to mark the thickness of the plywood and use the SoniCrafter saw to cut a section of the door frame straight to that depth.
I then cut a piece of plywood into the width of the part that needs to be replaced in the door box, then glued and nailed (
Plywood in place;
Make it a little proud so I can get around once the glue is set --
Close and make the new plywood part flush with the existing door frame so that once all is reinstalled
It will be a perfect match.
The door frame at the bottom of the stairs and elsewhere also needs similar repairs;
For each repair, use the appropriate scarp plywood and cut it to the right size with the help of the profile gauge.
Home renovations achieved the main goal of bringing the stairs back to the bare wood and replacing the old choppy floors with new oak floors. The final stage will fill any of the walls with polyfilla, rub with wet and dry sand blocks and type the gloss paint (
Electric sander for larger areas)
Clean up the whole area and finish painting and decoration;
Start working down from the top.
Once everything is decorated, the last step is to finish it from the stairs.
First of all, by revitalizing the wooden steps with a large amount of teak oil, once two layers of fast-drying floor-light oak varnish are dried, a good durable surface can be provided, mix with the oak floor at the top and the bottom, it's easy to sweep clean.
You might ask me why I use teak oil.
Based on previous experience, I found that if you rub teak oil on the wound (
Cutting or deep scraping)
In oak furniture, it blends it with the full glory of the finished surface of oak furniture;
Of course, the premise is to polish the cutting edge of Oak first.
I also found that teak oil is great for any old dry wood that becomes absorbent like a pine pedal on the stairs.
The architectural archaeological evidence found in the dust above landing under the floor is this testator cigarette movie star card, No. 8 in series 25 of 1st.
Although the floor has been lifted many times since the house was built, the floor has been lifted for reuse
Wiring, plumbing and replacing the ropy board, because of the age of the card, it is clear that when the floor is first laid during the initial construction of the House, the card is dropped.
The card was most likely dropped by a builder when he opened a new pack of cigarettes while landing upstairs;
After checking on the Internet, this series of cards was only issued in the first half of 1928, and I'm sure once we pay off the mortgage and get approval, the construction of House c1928 will be confirmed to give the deed to the house.