Before I start the build process, I want you to know that at the end of this structure is a free downloadable PDF guide that is more detailed than I am in this structure.
The goal of the PDF is to give you directions with a powerful cabinet building method.
Hopefully this will help those who want to build cabinets and find reliable ways to do it.
The cabinet I built in this Instructure is the bathroom vanity.
The same construction method can also be used for kitchen cabinets, because the only difference between them and kitchen cabinets is height and depth.
The design I use is a very conservative straight line design. Nothing fancy.
No edge details.
The front of the drawer is just a piece of 1x6, and the door is a simple tongue slot structure with floating plywood.
I also have a guide to making tongue and groove cabinet doors on the table, which I will introduce in another instruction sheet.
Depending on the size and style, the list of materials for cabinets may vary from Cabinet to cabinet, but for the general list, you need the following tools: it may be dangerous to use electric tools incorrectly.
If you are doing something uncomfortable, don't do it.
First of all, I cut the whole piece of plywood into a more manageable size with a round saw.
Bring half-sized plywood to the table as much as possible, safer and easier than full-sized plywood.
For this I used the cheap 3/4 "pine plywood. (pic 1)
It's much easier to see things on the table.
The main part to be cut here is the side panel, the bottom shelf, and then the remaining strips are torn off, which will be cut into length later. (pic 2)
Each side block has a 3 "x 3" gap in the front corner of the bottom.
This is for the toe kick. (pic 3)
Two dressers, so there is this gap on all sides.
A good blade in the puzzle makes a big difference in cutting quality.
These cuts feel the same way I did with a table saw. (pic 4)
The front frame of the cabinet is the front frame of the cabinet, which will determine the position of all doors and drawers and provide some structural stiffness for the rest of the shell.
The overall size of the face rack depends on how many doors and drawers you want.
The PDF plan covers specific dimensions.
All the face frames were torn off the 1x6 pine board.
I am often asked what should I do to prevent the board from warping because I use cheap pine trees.
Well, the biggest thing I can say is to spend a lot of time picking high quality boards.
If you are not allowed to do this from where you get the wood, then they don't want your money.
Because their competitors will do so.
I usually get mine from Lowes because it is the only kiln dry supplier near me.
Your mileage may vary. (pic 1)
The general construction method for these cabinets is pocket holes.
There are a lot of different pocket hole fixtures and machines out there, and they can all do the same task.
If you are doing a lot of projects using pocket holes, pocket hole machines can be your reasonable choice.
In the meantime, if you're not going to do a lot of pocket hole projects, a simple $20 pocket hole fixture is fine. (pic 2)
As all pocket holes are cut, the face frame assembly is very fast. (pic 3)
When the face frame is finished, I also attach the side panel to the face frame with pocket holes.
Every cabinet I build has a side against the wall, so on those sides I have a pocket hole facing the outside.
On the side that is going to be exposed, I put the pocket holes inside the cabinet, but I made sure not to put anywhere you can easily see them where the door is open. (pic 1)
The shelf at the bottom also has pocket holes.
Pocket holes are at the bottom so you will never see them. (pic 2)
In order to provide more support to the top perimeter of the cabinet and to provide a spiral-through surface to fix the countertop, several plywood sheets are attached to the top panel on the side. (pic 3)
To gain more access to everything stored at the bottom of the cabinet, I added two slide-out trays to the larger vanity.
These are very easy to make and I have made a very quick tutorial on my website.
Ignore this tray option if you wish. (pic 4)
I know the door will come soon so I have 1/4 plywood ready for all the doors. (pic 1)
When the stain was dry, I quickly knocked out the drawer.
The drawer body is only 3/4 "plywood pocket holes, glued together with 3/8" plywood and nailed directly to the bottom. Quick and easy.
The exact size to follow is given in the PDF plan. (pic 2)
To install the drawer slides, see the instructions that come with the drawer slides of the specific style you choose.
Drawer slides are installed on the bottom of the drawer and on the cabinet, and I make sure everything fits. (pic 3)
As I said before, the length of the front of the drawer is only 1x6.
I cut all the front of the drawer from the continuous board so that the grain goes from one drawer to the next.
To ensure their safety, I screwed the screws in the drawer into the front of the drawer. (pic 4)
In the future I will make a separate note on the tongue and groove doors so that I don't get too complicated here.
On all the door rails and styles, cut the grove with a regular table saw blade to fit the plywood. (pic 1)
I cut my tongue at the end of the rail with My dado blade.
This is much easier than I thought.
Just use a test block. (pic 2)
After sticking the two rails to one style, the plywood can slide in place.
You can then stick to other styles.
I only use glue on the tongue of the door frame to float the internal panel, but if you use plywood, you can also use glue on plywood if you want.
If you are using a solid wood panel, do not use glue on the panel.
If glue is used, the expansion and shrinkage of the solid wood panel can cause problems with the door assembly. (pic 3)
To increase visibility, I painted the interior of the cabinet White.
When you try to find something, it will help illuminate the dark areas. (pic 1)
After everything was polished and dyed, I sprayed a clear water finish.
I 've been using a cheap port freight HVLP spray gun for years and I love it.
It greatly speeds up the process of application completion, which can be easily done by anyone.
There are a few tutorials on YouTube about spraying finishes with HVLP guns. (pic 2)
The final step is to install the door hinge.
I didn't put any doors or drawers on these things because the people who want to get them want to install them themselves. (pic 3)
Hopefully you can use my video and this instructions as a general flow of how to make your own cabinets.
If you would like to learn more about the size, please click here to open my free PDF guide or right-click and select save as to download it to your computer.
I invite you to visit my website if you like this jayscustomations structure.
I have been posting new weekly content for the past two and a half years.
Good luck with your next version!