How did you install the wall mounted base sink?
Today, we will show you . . . . . . You will be ready to work on your own project.
If your bathroom is very tight and you want extra storage, the base sink installed on the wall is fantastic.
The space under the floating base can be used for anything-step stools, baskets, scales, magazines, dirty clothes . . . . . . .
Okay, maybe it's not dirty clothes!
In addition, the wall-mounted sink shows the wall of the tiled bathroom, creating a more open space than the traditional base sink.
Installation can be tricky.
We have made some mistakes ourselves.
But after our tutorial you will be more confident and prefer the look of the bathroom.
Here are the supplies you need: American Standard Ravenna white sink ($137)
Standard Ravenna half
Sink legs with white base ($107)1/4″ P-Trap Kit ($6)
The length is 1/4 "extension tube-12 "(optional)($7)Single-
High arc faucet handle ($248)Tape (FREE or $10)
Closing the valve (optional)($10)Foot Level (FREE or $10-$20)
Drill & Driver suite (FREE or $129)Bits (FREE or $15)
Drilling saw (optional)($9-$20)
10-inch tongue clamp ($15)Caulking Gun ($5 to $15)
Transparent silica gel ($4 to $8)
Ratchet and Socket group ($20 to $30)
Tail extension cutter ($28)
Combination wrench group (FREE or $20)
The most important thing about the sink installed on the wall is that there are wooden blocks on the wall.
The plywood in the picture below is on the wall.
This plywood is used for wall-mounted sinks.
Steve added drywall to the spike and tiled it.
The screws will be fixed on the plywood and the sink will be firmly fixed on the wall.
You need a block of wood if you want a super solid device.
It is also possible to replace plywood with a piece of 2 × 10 wood.
Either use the foot ail wood, or screw the wood onto the adjacent studs.
In any case, the sink installed on the wall requires a block of wood! !
Floating wall mounted sinks can be set at any height.
The ideal is 34 to 36 inch.
In this project, we placed a mark on the wall at a height of 35 inch because it was the height we chose for the top of the sink.
Select the height at the top of the sink from the finished floor and stick to it.
In addition, this will be the reference mark for the floating base.
More information about this installation.
Steve mentioned a potential fatal error in the video: Incorrect air door rod spacing.
Your project could be a nightmare.
The stem of Ravenna needs to be 3 inch apart.
Otherwise, the closing valve will not fit inside the base.
The bottom line is to adjust the pipe before completing the wall.
The height of the closing valve should be around 24 3/4 "from the finished floor.
The drain pipe should be 21 inch from the finished floor.
Here's a big tip: Turn Off the water of the house before installing the sink.
In this way, it will not leak if one of the closing devices is hit.
The next step is to install the floating base.
Can you do it yourself?
We will show it to you.
Steve explained in the video that it was about 7 inch from the top of the base to the top of the sink.
Remember the reference mark for the height of the sink. . . Yes, this is very important.
Measure 7 inch down from the 35 inch mark, which is the height of the base.
Set a height on the base and mark the position of the base hole on the wall.
The bottom center of the base has the third hole.
We chose not to drill this hole because the screw would pierce the drain.
This is very important: Know where the pipe is on the wall before drilling! !
The hole in the water supply pipe or drain pipe is not good.
This is obvious, but with that being said, you may get caught and not realize that a hole is being drilled on the pipe.
We had to cut holes in the wall bricks with a diamond hole saw.
The correct way to do this is to keep the drill bit at a 45 degree angle in order to start in the tile.
Then slowly tilt the drill bit to 90 degrees.
Our video is very detailed.
We are using a 1/2 diamond hole saw with a standard drill bit, but you can also use the impact Drive.
Screw the screws of the base into the block with pliers.
Be careful not to damage the thread of the nut.
The base is then temporarily mounted to the wall using washers and nuts.
It doesn't have to be too tight at this point.
Also, check whether the base is horizontal.
Place the sink on the base and check the level carefully (
Yes, what I want to say is.
It never hurts to check twice or three times.
Then mark the holes in the sink and cut them using a diamond drill bit.
The lag screw of the sink is larger than the lag screw of the base.
So we predrilled the block of wood with a 1/4 "drill bit and installed the screws with pliers.
In the video, we tested the sink with screws to make sure it worked.
Once the walls are ready for the sink, the next step is to install the faucet.
I think you will be satisfied with how easy it is to do so.
The faucet is easier to install when the sink is not installed to the wall.
We used the Portsmouth single, the American standard.
Handle the faucet on this project.
Side note on the single
Handle tap: since only one cartridge can be replaced, they are my favorite option in the bathroom.
Also, I think it's easier to clean the singlehandle faucets.
It's just my opinion of its value.
Ravenna already has a power supply line connected to it.
Great because one step less.
In addition, the speed connection drain control cable makes pop-
I hate mixing up with traditional pop music.
Ups and love speed connection.
Start watching our video at 10: 00 and check the faucet installation in detail.
Remove the tap fixing nut and slide the tap into the sink.
Just make sure there is a rubber gasket between the faucet body and the sink.
The gasket is then placed between the lower side of the sink and the fixing nut.
Tighten the nut with pliers and you make.
The Portsmouth drain has a foam gasket to seal it on the sink.
Because of this gasket, there is no need to use putty or silicone from plumber.
Slide the drain into the sink and add the rubber washer, plastic slip ring and brass nut to the lower side.
Tighten the brass nut with a set of pliers.
Because this is a potential leak area, it is closely connected.
Connect the speed connection drain control cable to the drain and add the drain.
Steve shows how to apply silicone to pipe threads to avoid leakage.
I think this is a great tip, especially for this type of sink.
Add the sink to the wall and fix it with lag screws.
This part can be tricky if you're alone, but luckily the human body has two hands and a head to support the sink, haha.
At 12: 47 of our video, Steve explains how to install P-Trap.
Here is a professional tip: cut the goose neck into a wall so that there is a 1 inch gap between it and the back of the wall tube.
This can prevent P-Trap assembly.
Steve explained the concept well in the video.
We used Ritchie tail tube and long tube knife to trim the goose neck.
Steel saw can also be used, but the pipe cutter is faster so far, which is my favorite tool for cutting PVC pipes.
Make sure all washers are in the right direction and tighten the three sliding nuts by hand.
The sliding nut from the goose neck to the wall pipe connection should be tightened 1/4 to 1/2 rpm with pliers.
Test the faucet by turning on the water and check for leaks at all pipe connections.
Nothing is worse than leaking water after the sink is installed! !
The last step is to install the floating base.
We tighten the nut using a combination wrench because the space for the ratchet is a bit tight.
Watch our video for more tips as some of them are easier to see than a written explanation.
Overall we thought the sink looked great.
We hope our tutorial will be helpful.
Please feel free to add your questions on the structures.
With the help of the home repair tutor, we are happy to assist.