Background those who raise chickens may be familiar with how many eggs can be in the kitchen soon.
Eggs don't actually need to be refrigerated, so you can put them outside instead of filling the fridge.
I made this because we often don't have enough space to put eggs.
Solution this note will be about building a cheap, simple wall-mounted egg rack that can hold a lot of eggs.
This is a very simple design that also keeps your eggs in order so you can know which ones are the oldest.
The shelf is on the slope, so when you take the eggs from the bottom, roll the rest down so you never get an egg a few weeks old.
This Instructure will guide you on how to make it and then give suggestions for design changes that I realized when making this.
The idea is that eggs roll between two pieces of wood.
It is important that the pieces are far enough apart from each other to ensure that the eggs are placed on the shelf stably, but it is also important that they are not far apart and that the eggs may fall from the gaps.
I would suggest making this gap a little smaller than the width of your smallest egg.
That way, you get the most support when you know your eggs won't fall on the floor.
There needs to be a ramp so that the eggs can roll down so that the oldest one stays at the bottom.
Obviously, it won't be too steep, otherwise the eggs can crack if they roll too fast or maybe fall off the bottom.
Again, eggs need to be steep enough to roll by themselves.
I bought two pieces of wood to determine what angle is best (as shown above)
, Put an egg on top and find the minimum angle needed to roll.
I found about 1 "at the end of the lift "(38mm)was enough.
Angle of about 2 degrees (
The project is very fast and easy to make with no more than 5 materials.
These measurements obviously depend on how many eggs you want, the size of the eggs, the size of the wood, and personal preferences.
As shown in the third image, Mark mitres with an edge of 45 degrees.
Make sure you mark it so mitre can cut into the wood from the measurement mark.
When you cut mitre to cut it, the width of the blade is cut into waste rather than into the wood you will be using.
If the gloves you cut fall off a little (
Such as the fifth picture)
You can solve this problem quickly by grinding it with some relatively rough sandpaper.
I decided to sink my "rear track" into the side track.
In order to do this, I separated the width of the "rear track" into two slots and could cut the middle out by simply tapping a door plate chisel with a mallet.
Arrange all the rails on a flat surface and adjust the joints by grinding down to fit.
Once you are satisfied with the accessories, drill holes for your wood screws.
Both of my holes go through the "side rails", so they are less visible: each side goes through the herringbone seat, each side goes through the "side rail" and into the "rear rail ".
Apply the glue to the joint and twist it together.
In the fourth picture, you can see that I had to add a piece of wood in the middle to get the middle to the same level as the end of the "sidebar.
Split bead for connecting rack to wall-
This can be done by screwing into the wall or using adhesive.
I want all these beads to be perpendicular to the same level (
See the first image in done and uploaded).
This means that the holes need to be in different places: center, middle bead on the left and right: half of the height (
Mine is 38mm, which means 19mm from the center)
Refer to the fifth picture.
Mark these holes and drill them through the "side bar" and extra wood in the middle, make sure not to drill into the screws that connect the rails together.
Don't screw the bracket on the wall, though.
I added the string to make the rack look better.
It also keeps the two main tracks together.
The pattern I made is in the picture above.
If you want to add strings, decide what pattern you want first, drill the holes first and string them together.
Make sure you know where the hole goes first-
I don't, I have holes in places I don't want, and the patterns don't work as I wish.
Pass the rope through the hole and tighten and tie with bulky knots at each end that does not slip through the hole.
The tension in the hole should pull the knot tightly on the wood.
Screw on the stand on the wall and polish on any rough surface.
Align wall brackets to make them vertical
I did this on a tile floor and it's easy to find out if they don't line up.
If you want to apply for completion, do so now.
Finally, stick or screw the rack where you want it.
Before you put the eggs on top, test to see if it can withstand their weight --
You don't want more than a dozen eggs to crack on the floor. . .
If you fill the whole shelf with eggs, make sure you check that the eggs at the bottom haven't come off yet as it may have been around for a while!
To do this, put it in cold water and it may fall off if it floats on the water.
Really fresh eggs should be placed at the bottom.
If you find that your eggs are full, you may want to take a look at this note on frozen eggs: how to freeze eggs. 1. )
But screw it straight to the wall.
I chose not to do this later, as some longer eggs were not suitable for placing on shelves when touching the walls.
If you have thicker beads, or do put the ones I use on one side, you may have plenty of room for long eggs. 1.
All the "tracks" can be reclined together and the "ledge" is connected directly to here.
I can't do this because I don't have wood screws short enough. 2.
The larger Wood has two wider pieces of wood connected by pins.
This can then be connected directly to the wall via d-rings. 3.
I want to make a brass version of steampunk.
The image of 3rd is very self-explanatory. . .
Please feel free to put any photos, suggestions, other ideas you have made (. . . and typos? . . . )
In the comments
Thank you for reading my instructions.