Introduction This manual is different from most of the instructions, it is mainly to introduce a water filter project, as well as a detailed list of parts, including the source.
The city water in my town tastes bad . . . . . . Including when used for ice cubes.
I dragged the bottled water through a variety of cans.
Water filter based.
Not only is it a pain to buy bottled water, but I paid twice for my water, which is frustrating.
One is to pay for the town and the second is to buy bottled water.
As for the pitchers-
I don't care which brand you are using, they all have the same cons. They are slow.
If you want water next week and some ice cubes, you 'd better start filtering now.
Over time, the water slowly drips through expensive filters and becomes slower and slower.
I don't want or need a complete house system, so the best solution seems to be some type
Sink filter solution.
When I looked at the various options, I found that unless you buy a very expensive system, you end up with cheap parts that might cause you problems.
An example is flexible Flushing for Internet.
Many systems rely on push
In the type of pressure of the connection, or the connector with the inverted hook to keep the plastic-
Like a pipe.
I read a lot of horror stories about the sudden fall-off of the tube that filled the user's kitchen with flooding.
Another problem with Pre
The packaged system is that once you have it installed, you will be locked in their proprietary replacement cartridges.
You may have a hard time finding them, and they usually need to be replaced frequently, expensive and slow flow rate.
That's why I decided to put together the system I described here.
Some of the benefits are: Use a heavy duty 10 inch filter housing of standard size.
This makes the choice of changing the filter wide, usually providing hundreds or thousands of gallons of filtered water at a flow rate of about 1 gallon per minute.
Wire the screws on the hose with stainless steel outer weave.
Brass adapter and accessories.
The shut-off valve that allows the cartridge to be replaced and the filtration system to be completely isolated, while still allowing the flow of water to the kitchen sink, as well as the ability to adjust the flow rate of the filter.
A heavier filter faucet instead of a typical plastic faucet, including a steering handle and a spring load faucet, makes it easier to fill up large containers.
The trick is to find all the right parts because there doesn't seem to be a kit like this available . . . . . . So the parts list (
Is the main benefit of this structure.
For more information about the numbered items in the square diagram, see the parts list below.
Tools required for Basin wrenches (
Makes it easier to tighten the nut at the bottom of the faucet)
List of movable wrench cross screwdriver PTFE duct tape silicone GreaseParts (
Total cost of parts is about $120)
1-water filter housing-industry standard 10 "cartridge for online storage, source: mcmaster. com 609-689-
3415 4448K38 $29.
68 manufacturer = pentekfilation.
Com Fine Line 10 opaque polypropylene-blue bottom with black top 1/4 "non-proliferation treaty entry and exit/total HEIGHT = 12 1/8" x 4 5/8 "(
To prevent the algae from growing, I chose the blue opaque light)
Water enters from the outside of the filter and exits from the center of the filter.
There is a pressure release button on the inlet side-helping to screw down the bottom.
Replaceable "O" ring = Pentek 151117 (made by Buna-N)
3 3/8 "ID 1/8" thick = industry standard trade size: housing comes with: Wrench (see picture)
1 filter cartridge: MAXETW Model c max-975 (see picture)
Carbon removal sediment, bad taste, 5 micron filter replaced by smell $13.
Com 2-mounting bracket for filter housing (
SOURCE Online: mcmaster. com 609-689-3415 4422K96 $2. 12 MIL-Spec Buna-N O-
Ring A75 Durometer, AS568A Dash number 237 mcmaster. Com 419t274 $9.
32 package for 10 3 brass adapters: 1/4 "pipe thread to 3/8" compression Home Depot LF A24 $5. 23 (
3/8 end nuts and adapters are not used)
4-brass adapter: 1/4 "pipe thread to 1/4" compression home treasure LF A23 $3. 32 (
1/4 end nuts and adapters are not used)
5-48 "flexible hose-woven with stainless steel Steel: 3/8" compress ACE Hardware 4061123 $13 per end. 99 (
2 elbow adapters not used)
Bar Code: 0 82901 02743 0 6 brass "T" fittings: all = 3/8 "compression;
Entrance = capture nut Home Depot CT2-666X P $6.
28 7 quarter direct valve: 3/8 "compression;
Inlet = captured nut Lowes Item 272589 model k2071 pclf $7. 78 (
Export nut and card sleeve are not used)
8-60 "flexible hose-woven with stainless steel: 1/4" compress each end online: plumbingsupply. com $12.
63 pipeline supply group, 994 E.
California Chico No. 20 95928-
6712 label = C000600 M65B Bar Code: 0 54361 05605 3 l q-Wick-
It's hard to find but need as most filter taps = 1/4 "9-Kingston brass-
K819dl-Water Filter Faucet
Polished chrome finish = 3023661 S ATGstores. com (
> Fix the universe. com)$38. 93 800-462-8166 888-500-
9541 1/4 compressed input-
Base = 1 3/4 "install I started by installing the filtered tap.
I already have a hole in my sink with a fill plug.
This hole was originally intended for a separate nozzle, but I have a nozzle in my current faucet, so it is a blocked hole.
The filtered faucet is well installed in the standard hole with an O-ring at the bottom for waterproof sealing.
From under the sink you will see 1/4 of the water inlet coming out of the bottom of the faucet.
To fix the tap you will slip on large plastic washing machines, metal washing machines and nuts.
This is a really useful pot wrench.
Under the sink, I also connect the 1/4 "to 1/4" flex hose to the bottom of the faucet.
Do not use any Teflon tape or duct paint.
Tighten the hand and then turn half a circle with an adjustable wrench or Basin wrench.
Then I installed the brass adapter in the input and output of the filter housing.
NPT end of brass adapter (
Plastic filter case)
, About 6 times wrapped around the Teflon tube tape (
In the direction of the turn, so will not relax)
, But skip the first line of threads to make sure they grab and don't cross threads.
Tighten it by hand, and then use the wrench at a distance of about 1/2 ,(
It will only be more when it leaks later).
I then connect the 1/4 "hose to the filter faucet, to the output side of the filter housing, and the 3/8" hose to the input side of the filter housing.
This is easier to do before installing the housing.
You can then install the filter housing on the side cabinet wall using the "L" stand and screws.
Next, open the cartridge housing to install the cartridge.
It may not need it until you do the cartridge replacement later, but remove the "O" ring and see if there is a little lubricant on it.
If not, apply a layer of silicone grease on the "O" ring to get a better seal.
No Vaseline (Vasoline)
Because it will spoil the rubber.
Then remove the plastic package and install the filter cartridge.
The cartridge is located between the raised ridge at the bottom of the shell and a section of the output tube in the cover.
Slide the bottom of the case onto the cover and screw it into the appropriate position.
If the filter is not properly placed on the housing, the housing will not be screwed off.
You can then tighten further using the special wrench that comes with the housing.
You must turn off the cold water supply of the existing faucet before proceeding.
I then unscrew the existing 3/8 flex hose from the existing valve fixture.
After wiping any water in the hose, you can install the brass "T" and the 1/4 turn valve (
Put valve I in closed position).
The 3/8 flexible hose input from the filter housing is then connected to the output of the 1/4 rotary valve.
As mentioned earlier: Do not use adhesive tape or pipe paint on compressed fittings.
Tighten them by hand, then turn another 1/2 with a wrench.
At this point, you can turn on the main cold water feed and check for leaks.
Then, I want to adjust the amount of water flowing to the filter to prevent it from splashing out of the filter faucet with about a gallon of flow per minute.
I do this by opening the filter faucet all the way and then slowly opening the 1/4 turning valve while monitoring the amount of water coming out of the faucet.
You will hear the water filled with the filter housing and then the tap out.
You may want to adjust the flow time with an empty 1 gallon kettle.
After the adjustment is complete, you should allow at least 2 gallons of water to flow for cleaning before using the water.
Note: This is not the opposite-
Therefore, it does not rely on high water pressure to work properly.
Instead, I adjusted the flow rate of 1 gallon per minute as this is the value you see on most cartridges.
From some experiments I did find it too high to leave the pressure in the cartridge and I did pass a bad taste.
Even if the filter cartridge is rated at 3,000 gallons, I will replace it faster.
Since I will only use filtered water for drinking, ice making and cooking, I estimate it will last for several years.
But to avoid the build-up of bacteria, even if your gallons are insufficient, it's a good idea to replace the filter once or twice a year.
I intend to put a piece of white tape on the filter housing with the installation date and replace the cartridge every 6 months.
When replacing the cartridge, turn off the 1/4 turn valve and turn on the filter faucet.
At this point, you should be able to loosen the case using a dedicated wrench.
Then you can finish it by hand.
Since the House will be filled with water, there is a bucket and some towels on hand.
Remove the old cartridge, rinse the case and put in the new cartridge.
Be sure to mark the change date on the House. (
After turning on the tap, you may not need to use the red pressure release button at the input of the filter housing, I don't want to do this because there may be some crud under it that will later cause it to leak. )
The last point involves TDS "total dissolved solids ".
When I use one of the drip filter pitchers, it comes with a TDS meter.
I measured 166 of the water I had filtered before, and the taste was really bad.
After the filter produces water for a long time, it does measure 0 and the taste is OK.
When your reading is more than 1 m, you should replace the filter cartridge.
When the reading time is over 6 and actually around 10, the taste of the water is not good.
I decided to do TDS testing on the water in my new filtration system.
I was surprised to find that the water measured 158 after filtration (
By contrast, my unfiltered water is 166).
But the water is really good.
Dong checked it online and talked with professionals in some industries. he found that TDS is not omnipotent in drinking water.
The carbon part of my new cartridge filtered out something that caused my water to taste bad . . . . . . Although the TDS reading is not as low as the drip filter, whose water taste is not good even if the TDS reading is very low.
All in all, I am satisfied with the taste of the water from my new filtration system, and the flow is large and can replace the filter cartridge very cost-effectively.
The ability to choose the versatility of the filter cartridge that best suits your situation allows me to end up using a filter cartridge that is different from the one that comes with the enclosure.
I used it: Maxcyst-
975 this filter cartridge filters out smaller particles . . . . . . To Micron, this will stop many microorganisms and bacteria.
It also features a solid block of activated carbon that is effective in removing chlorine flavor and odor.
It is rated at 1 gallon and 20,000 gallons. (
I will still change every 6 months)
It was manufactured by Watts Water, a subdivision of wattspremiere.
It can be obtained from: ohiopurewater. com/shop 888-644-6426 for $15.