compact home bar - small stainless steel wall mount sink

by:KEDIBO     2019-08-21
compact home bar  -  small stainless steel wall mount sink
This bar has a small cabinet.
High speed rail, ready for surface and extended bar front.
This is the first project I designed and built myself, so please forgive the randomness of the building.
Suitable for dormitories or crowded University Apartments (like mine).
This is my shopping list.
Spent 120 at the local hardware store)
And some leftovers I used.
2: 8'2 "x4" 2: 4' x8' board for BC grade plywood, 1/4 "thick1: 4' x18" board, 1: the chrome handle of 8' x4 'outer corner is 2: 8 (
I'm sure there's a better name, but you'll see it in the photo)
Decree "month" of the month of slideminwax gathering and dyeing onescraps "(about 5 ft)
Pieces of 1'x4 (about 5 ft)
Many of the Oval DingTalk slots of Bradspaint brushsandpaperI started with cutting 2'x4 to make the frame of the bar.
I would like a base of 36 "wide 18" deep.
Side with cabinet and high-speed rail (
Called "back" from now on ")
Will be 44 "and the people next to it will go (the 'front')
Will be 48 "so we need to cut 2" x4 "accordingly ".
It most effectively maintains the size of the upright piece and places the rest in the middle.
Then cut off the side and front of the plywood and nail it on it.
There are several oval nails on both sides.
It's the bartender's dream to take the high-speed train.
Put the wine you use a lot there, and when all your friends drink rum and Coke, Jack and Coke, vodka supplements, etc, it makes life easier. . .
The rail should come out about 6 (
Leave a little extra space to make it more flexible).
I want to set aside a 15 minute gap, "starting at the bottom of the track, I chose the 18" track to make sure it is supported on the back 2 "x4" because, well, wine bottles are often very heavy.
Following the instructions in the bag, I opened the railing.
The top half of the railway has to be shortened to accommodate the speed I want.
I form four outer sides with scrap, then cut the plywood to form the bottom, then cut the front from the plywood to make the seat flush with the frame.
Also, I added a plywood about 2 "high across the bar so that the high speed rail and cabinet doors can be placed flush.
I used my leftovers again.
Cutting two pieces will become the support of the shelf.
I chose to put it at the bottom of the glassware and the extra bottle storage for about 5 ".
Flatten the bracket and nail it down.
Then cut off a piece of your shelf and put it on it.
In order for more people to get into the bottom, mine is not exactly 18 "deep.
Also added a few inches of plywood to the bottom (
Like under the rails)
So the door is flush.
The door was cut from plywood.
They are a little smaller than the entire width (
About 2 inch per side).
Make sure they are symmetrical no matter what size you choose.
I attached the hinge as per the attached instructions.
I cut the shelf into a suitable preparation area.
Extra inches are left on the front and gaps on the back to accommodate the Back 2 "x 4 ".
I nailed it to the back shelf and stuck it to the front with glue.
When working at the back of the bar, there is no need to have extra nails in front to block the road.
Before putting on the last shelf, I decided to get dirty for no reason other than I was tired.
I used some stains. and-polyurethane-in-
One thing, it turned out to be very good.
Only one coat is needed.
I didn't bother to get the inside dirty.
When you're done, don't forget to leave the brush in the pine grease and wash it off.
The last shelf.
I decided to leave more than 1 on each side and 3 on the back and front.
What is important here is symmetry.
I only nailed it to the side, which seems solid for people.
I added a lock to the cabinet and a handle to the cabinet and high speed rail to complete the project.
If you choose to do so, follow the instructions that come with the lock and cabinet.
To get it done, I added a turn outside to get around the edges and cover up some bad Wood tricks.
It's only nailed to the side because it's just to see.
Some glue will work, I'm sure. And it's done!
It took a few hours to plan the specs I wanted, about 6 hours on the first day and 1 hour on the second day (
With Dad's construction help and expertise)
I think this can be a good way to scale up and become a more permanent bar.
When not using it as another way to save space, it can also represent a variety of cabinets.
For others, it would be nice to try to work in some sort of ice bucket located behind the prep area.
Bending some pieces of metal into a small cube, sealing in the corner, and a little drainage on the side, dripping the melted ice into a dollar, would be very simple.
Maybe someone has an idea about it?
I also have a wall hanging beer bottle opener and small towel rack that I will put aside when they arrive.
The bar suffered quite a bit of abuse over the course of the year and now is the time for the second edition. 0.
Does anyone have suggestions on what to add?
Of course, I will try to find a better railway system.
I'm also working on a way to add ice cubes.
I am open to any and all suggestions or comments.
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